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Leatherette, also called "skai" or imitation leather, is a thin layer of soft plastic with a more or less grained surface, applied to a fabric weave. Recolouring is very easy, but only accidental damage can be repaired. Major cracks and peeling due to ageing of the material or lack of maintenance cannot be permanently repaired.


Before starting, make sure you work in an airy and not too humid place. Ideally, dismantle the items to be restored for greater comfort. Renovating imitation leather is very easy to do, however it is imperative to work meticulously and carefully, in order to obtain an optimal result.

Observe the order of application of the products and the drying times!


  • 2 essential products :
    • Paint
    • Colourless protective varnish
  • 1 product in case of repairs : RépaCuir


  • Acetone methylated spirits
  • Paper towels
  • Sandpaper (240 to 400 grit)
  • 1 high density foam roller, 1 small brush, 1 sponge and a soft spatula


Cleaning is an important phase of the renovation. Start by sanding (hand weight) with sandpaper to break up the original varnish, then clean the dirt and degrease with methylated spirits or acetone, diluted with 50% water.


Combler les petits accrocs et griffures à l'aide du RépaCuir

If the material is not pierced :

  1. Apply the product in a thin layer.
  2. Allow to dry for 2 to 4 hours depending on the temperature until the surface is dry to the touch.
  3. Patiently repeat the operation several times if necessary, as the product shrinks a lot as it dries. as it dries. In case of excess product, sand with abrasive paper.

If the material is pierced :

  1. Glue a piece of leatherette material with Neoprene glue to give the hole a bottom, and to retain the product.
  2. Carry out the repair as described above.


The paint is applied in the shade between 10 and 25°C, with a foam roller, a sponge or by spraying: aerosol or spray gun (1 mm nozzle).

Shake the bottle or can well before each use!
Caution: Do not put two treated surfaces in contact until they are dry.
For surfaces that touch, activate the drying process with a hair dryer, hot at the beginning and then cold at the end, or slide on a piece of greaseproof paper. Wait at least a week before removing the greaseproof paper.
If the paint never seems to dry, see our FAQ at the bottom of the page.
Drying time between coats: about 2 hours at 20°C.

If the paint used is our PIGMENT DYE:
Apply 1 to 3 coats with a high density foam roller: 3 coats for very light colours, as well as reds and yellows.
To avoid excessive bubbling, do not overload the roller with paint.
For hard-to-reach areas, use a brush.

If the paint used in the previous step is our SPRAY PAINT WITH INTEGRATED VARNISH:
AApply 2 to 4 coats: 4 coats for very light colours, as well as red and yellow tones.
Apply in even, thin, criss-cross layers at a distance of about 30cm from the substrate.


Protecting your paint is essential.
The colourless varnish protects the colouring first and the material from repeated rubbing. It prevents soiling and gives the finish to your renovation.
We advise against using your seats, armchairs or sofas before applying the varnish: risk of scratches!

If the paint used in the previous step is our PIGMENT DYE:
Apply a minimum of 2 coats of Clear Coat. Use a clean, slightly dampened sponge to spread. Crush any bubbles that may form before they before they dry. For the aerosol version, apply in regular, thin, criss-crossing layers at a distance of approximately 30cm from the surface.

If the paint used in the previous step is our SPRAY PAINT WITH INTEGRATED VARNISH:
The varnish integrated in the paint will ensure a protection of approximately 6 months on the most stressed areas.


Do you have a video tutorial that shows the products and their use?

Yes, we invite you to view all our videos by clicking on the image below.



After the paint has been applied, there are still roller marks, what should be done?

Traces remain because you did not apply enough product and therefore did not cover the surface properly. Reapply a coat and the recolourant will dry perfectly to give an even colour.
Also note that a tool that is overloaded with product (paint or protective varnish), generates more traces.

I can't apply the paint with the roller in some places. Can I use a brush, I'm afraid of leaving marks?

You can use a brush for folds and small areas but also for larger ones, but the work takes longer. In any case you will find a uniform surface after drying.

The paint seems not to dry or is very sticky even after several hours. Why does this happen?

Please follow this link lien for a full answer.

I have applied the varnish to a leather chair that I have recoloured, but I would like to change the colour slightly. Is this possible?

If the varnish used is the one supplied in a can, you can apply the pigment recolourant directly over it.
If you are using a spray varnish, please sand the leather and clean the residues before applying the product.
In all cases, you should apply one or two coats of varnish.

How long does paint last on leatherette?

The durability of our products is several years, but it depends a lot on the preparation of the surface before painting and the maintenance that you will do with our Clear Coat.

Bubbles appear when applying paint or Clear Coat, what should I do? ?

All water-based products will tend to bubble. These should be crushed and removed before the varnish dries. varnish has dried. If it is too late, you will need to lightly sand the required areas with 400-1000 grit sandpaper and repeat.
Note also that a tool (roller, brush, sponge) that is too full of product will generate more traces and bubbles.