LEATHERETTE / SKAÏ RENOVATION: INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE
FURNITURE & CAR LEATHERETTE / SKAÏ
Leatherette, also called skaï, is a thin layer of flexible plastic, more or less grained on the surface, laid on a fabric backing. Recolouring is very easy, but only accidental damage can be repaired. Major cracks and peeling caused by the ageing of the material or by a lack of care cannot be repaired durably.
ADVICE
Before you start, make sure you are working in a well-ventilated place that is not too damp. For greater comfort, ideally remove the parts to be restored. Renovating leatherette is very easy to do, but it is essential to work meticulously and carefully in order to obtain the best result.
Follow the order in which the products are applied, as well as the drying times!
PRODUCTS REQUIRED
- 2 essential products:
- Pigment Recolour / Paint
- Clear protective varnish
- 1 product strongly recommended:
- Multi-purpose Catalyst (to improve the performance of the products)
- 1 product if repairs are needed: RépaCuir
ACCESSORIES REQUIRED
- Acetone or methylated spirits
- Paper towels
- Sandpaper (bodywork grade, grit 240 to 400)
- 1 high-density foam roller, 1 small paintbrush, 1 sponge and a flexible spatula
STEP 1: PREPARING THE SURFACE
Cleaning is an important phase of the renovation. Start by sanding (with the weight of your hand) with the sandpaper to break the original varnish, then clean off dirt and degrease with methylated spirits or with acetone diluted with 50% water.
STEP 2: REPAIR
Fill small tears and scratches using RépaCuir.
If the material is not punctured:
- Apply the product in a thin coat.
- Leave to dry for 2 to 4 hours depending on the temperature, until the surface is dry to the touch.
- Patiently repeat the operation several times if necessary, as the product shrinks a lot as it dries. If there is excess product, sand it down with abrasive paper.
If the material is punctured:
- Using neoprene glue, stick a piece of skaï material behind the hole to give it a base, and to hold the product in place.
- Carry out the repair as described above
STEP 3: RECOLOURING
Recolouring is carried out in the shade at between 10 and 25°C, with a foam roller, a sponge or by spraying: aerosol or spray gun (1 mm nozzle).
Shake well the bottle or aerosol before each use!
Warning: do not let two treated surfaces touch before they are dry.
For surfaces that touch each other, speed up drying with a hair dryer, hot at first then cold at the end, or slip in baking paper. Wait at least a week before removing the baking paper.
If the paint seems never to dry, refer to our FAQ at the bottom of the page.
Drying time between coats: about 2 hours at 20°C.
If the paint used is our PIGMENT RECOLOUR:
Apply 1 to 3 coats with a high-density foam roller: 3 coats for really very light colours, as well as red and yellow shades.
To avoid too many bubbles forming, do not overload the roller with paint.
For hard-to-reach areas, use a paintbrush.
If the paint used in the previous step is our AEROSOL PAINT WITH BUILT-IN VARNISH:
Apply 2 to 4 coats: 4 coats for really very light colours, as well as red and yellow shades.
Apply in even, thin, crossed coats from a distance of about 30cm from the surface. More information in video here
STEP 4: PROTECTION
Protecting your recolouring is essential.
The Clear Varnish first protects the colour, then the material, from repeated rubbing. It prevents dirt build-up and gives your renovation its finish.
We advise against using your seats, armchairs or sofas before the Varnish has been applied: risk of scratches!
If the paint used in the previous step is our PIGMENT RECOLOUR:
Apply at least 2 coats of Clear Varnish. Use a clean, slightly damp sponge to spread it. Crush any bubbles that form before
they dry. For the aerosol version, apply in even, thin, crossed coats from a distance of about 30cm from the surface. More information in video here
If the paint used in the previous step is our AEROSOL PAINT WITH BUILT-IN VARNISH:
The varnish built into the paint will give you protection for about 6 months on the areas that get the heaviest use.
FAQ: FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
After applying the paint, there are roller marks left. What should I do?
Marks are left because you have not applied enough product and so have not covered the surface well. Apply another coat and, as it dries, the paint will spread out perfectly to give an even colour.
Please also note that a tool overloaded with product (paint or protective varnish) creates more marks.
I can't apply the paint with the roller in certain places. Can I use a paintbrush? I'm afraid of leaving marks.
You can use a paintbrush for creases and small areas, and also for larger ones, but the work takes longer. In every case you will get an even surface once it has dried.
The paint seems not to dry or is very sticky even after several hours. Why?
Please follow this link for a complete answer.
I applied the varnish to a leather armchair that I recoloured, but I would like to change my colour slightly. Is that possible?
If the varnish used is the one supplied in a tub, you can apply the leatherette paint directly over it.
If the varnish used is the one supplied in an aerosol, please first sand the leather and clean off the residue before applying the product.
In every case, you will then need to apply one or two coats of varnish.
How long does the paint last on leatherette?
Our products last for several years, but this depends greatly on the preparation work you do on the surface before painting and on the care you give it with our Clear Varnish.
Bubbles appear when applying the paint or the Clear Varnish. What should I do?
All water-based products tend to form bubbles. You need to crush them and make them disappear before the
varnish is dry. If it is too late, you will need to sand lightly in the places required using abrasive paper of grit 400 to 1000 and start again.
Also note that a tool (roller, paintbrush, sponge) that is overloaded with product creates more marks and bubbles.
