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Suitable for all smooth or grained leathers, pigmented or aniline, dipped lamb or cow, full grain or rectified grain. For velvety leathers such as nubuck or suede, please refer to the specific instructions for use.


Before starting, make sure you work in an airy and not too humid place. For more comfort, ideally disassemble the items to be restored. Renovating leather is very simple to do, however it is imperative to work meticulously and carefully, in order to obtain an optimal result.

Observe the order of application of the products and the drying times!


  • 2 essential products :
    • Paint
    • Colourless protective varnish
  • 1 highly recommended product: Nourishing Oil
  • 2 products in case of repairs : CicaCuir + RépaCuir


  • Acetone
  • Paper towels
  • Sandpaper (bodywork 240 to 400 grit)
  • 1 high density foam roller, 1 small brush, 1 sponge and a soft spatula


Cleaning is a very important phase of the renovation.
Sand the leather (hand weight, dry) with 240 to 400 grit sandpaper to break the original varnish and remove unsightly reliefs (blisters).
Do not insist on areas where the leather is worn. Do not sand the seams.
Remove dirt and sanding residues and degrease with acetone only.

If the support is a SOFA or an ARMCHAIR :
Then clean the sebum traces on the neck and armrests, even if there are no visible traces. Use the sebum cleaner for this. Apply with a clean sponge (do this with protective gloves). Wait one minute for the product to work, and wipe with a good quality microfiber cloth. If you can access and clean the flesh side of the leather, do so!
Depending on the case, this cleaning operation may have to be repeated over several days. The drying time for this product on a porous area is at least 24 hours. Do not accelerate the drying time as this may harden the leather.
To easily check the quality of the cleaning, simply stick a small piece of scotch tape. If it adheres to the leather, you can then proceed with your renovation.

If your leather is really dry, cardboardy or brittle, it is necessary to rehydrate it first with our Nourishing Oil, about 30 days before your repair (more information in step 5).

step 2 : REPAIR

Repair of scratches, cracks, peeling, etc. (if necessary).
Start by applying CicaCuir to major cracks and porous or worn areas. CicaCuir does not only act on the surface, it also densifies and consolidates the weakened leather. Once the CicaCuir is dry to the touch, apply the RepaCuir with a spatula to fill in any gaps in the surface. Several applications will be necessary as the RepaCuir shrinks as it dries.
RepaCuir dries quickly (a few minutes), so avoid overthicknesses, prefer several successive thin coats and apply the product only where needed.

To repair a tear or an open hole, it is necessary to laminate with a piece of leather. Instructions for use here


Recolouring is carried out in the shade between 10 and 25°C, with a foam roller, a sponge or by spraying: aerosol or spray gun (1 mm nozzle).

Shake the bottle or can well before each use!
Caution: do not put two treated surfaces in contact until they are dry.
For surfaces that touch each other, activate the drying process with a hair dryer, hot at the beginning and cold at the end, and slide a piece of greaseproof paper between the pieces of leather. Leave the paper on for at least a week before removing it.
If the paint never seems to dry, see our FAQ at the bottom of the page.
Drying between coats: about one hour at 20°C.

If the paint used is our LEATHER PIGMENT DYE:
AApply 1 to 4 coats with a high density foam roller: 4 coats for very light colours, as well as reds and yellows.
To avoid excessive bubbling, do not overload the roller with paint.
For hard-to-reach areas, use a brush..

If the paint used in the previous step is our SPRAY PAINT WITH INTEGRATED VARNISH :
Apply 2 to 5 coats: 5 coats for very light colours, as well as red and yellow tones.
Apply in even, thin, criss-cross layers at a distance of about 30cm from the substrate.


In the case of a significant change in colour (dark to light), wait a fortnight to obtain the final colour and proceed with step 4 of these instructions.
The recolouring agent slowly sinks into the leather to set, and depending on the condition of the leather, whether it is porous or very open, the initial colour may influence the new colour. If this happens, apply one or two more coats of recolourant.


The protection of your recolouring is essential.
The Silk Varnish or Protective Wax protects the colouring and the grain of the leather from repeated rubbing. They prevent soiling and give the finish to your renovation. We advise against using your seats, armchairs or sofas before applying the Varnish or Protective Wax: risk of scratching!

If the paint used is our LEATHER PIGMENT DYE:
Apply a minimum of 2 coats of Silk Varnish 24 hours after recolouring (allow the 1st coat to dry before applying the 2nd), and a 3rd coat 15 days later of Silk Varnish or Protective Wax is strongly recommended.

  • LEATHER VARNISH : use a clean sponge slightly dampened to spread. Crush any bubbles before they dry. For the aerosol version, apply in regular, thin, criss-crossing layers at a distance of about 30cm from the surface.

  • PROTECTIVE WAX : Use a lint-free cloth, then polish once the product has dried. For the aerosol version, apply in regular, thin, criss-cross layers at a distance of about 30cm from the substrate.

If the paint used in the previous step is our SPRAY PAINT WITH INTEGRATED VARNISH :
The varnish integrated in the paint will ensure a protection of approximately 6 months on the most stressed areas.


Leather Nourishing Oil is essential to restore the leather's suppleness, resistance to deformation and tearing.
The Nourishing Oil is to be applied 30 days after the application of the Polish.
Use a clean flannel and massage the leather. The oil, once infiltrated into the leather fibres, never comes out, but it can take a whole night to penetrate after recolouring.
Note that after an application of paint and/or protective varnish, only SOFOLK Nourishing Oil, by its fluidity and composition, will be able to penetrate through our products and into the heart of the leather fibres.


Do you have a video tutorial that shows the products and their use?

Yes, we invite you to view all our videos by clicking on the image below.


RepaCuir cracks when a lot of pressure is applied to the leather. Why does this happen?

This may be due to too much product being applied. In this case, you will have to sand it down to make it thicker. Most often this problem is due to an abnormal stretching of the leather (leather with broken fibres, degraded foam and therefore soft). You will then have to counter-glue with a piece of leather (reinforcement), or if this is not possible, change the foam so that it is firmer and more flexible. If this is not possible, change the foam so that it is firmer and thus limits the mechanical constraints (stretching).

After applying the pigment dye on my leather, there are still traces of the roller, what should I do?

Traces remain because you did not apply enough product and therefore did not cover the surface properly. Apply a second coat and the pigment dye will dry perfectly and give an even colour..

I can't apply the pigment dye with the roller to certain areas of my leather. Can I use a brush? brush, I'm afraid of leaving traces?

You can use a brush for folds and small areas, but also for larger ones, but the work takes longer. In any case you will find a uniform surface after drying.

The pigment recolourant seems not to dry or is very sticky even after several hours. Why is this?

Please follow this lien for a full answer.

I have applied the varnish to a leather chair that I have recoloured, but I would like to change my colour slightly. Is this possible?

If you are using a can of varnish, you can apply the pigment dye directly on top.
If you are using a spray can, please sand the leather and clean the residues before applying the new colour.
In any case, you will have to reapply the varnish.

How long does the recolouring last on the leather?

The pigment dye is made from the same components as the original dye. It will last for several years depending on the care and wear of your leather. The gradual disappearance of the recolouring agent will be due to rubbing caused by use, hence the importance of regular application of a varnish or wax (protective screen).

Bubbles appear during the application of the Pigment Dye or the Silky Varnish, what should I do??

All water-based products will tend to bubble. These should be crushed and removed before the varnish dries. varnish has dried. If it is too late, you will need to lightly sand the required areas with 400-1000 grit sandpaper and start again.
Also note that a tool (roller, brush, sponge) that is too full of product will generate more marks and bubbles.

If I apply Nourishing Oil to my sofa or car seat, will I stain my clothes?

The product must be allowed to penetrate the leather. This can take up to ten hours. If all the oil you put in does not penetrate If all the oil you put in does not penetrate, it means that the leather does not need it anymore. Wipe off the excess with a cloth. Note that once the food oil has Note that once the food oil has penetrated the leather, it never comes out.

I have a leather cream that I use for maintenance. Can I use it?

We do not recommend the use of creams. Food oil is 100% natural and penetrates deep into the leather, while creams remain on the surface and tend to creams remain on the surface and tend to clog the leather.

When should I apply Sofolk Nourishing Oil and how?

Apply Nourishing Oil at least once a year, and 3 to 4 times a year on heavily used areas, such as shoes, sofa seats and armrests, or the driver's seat of a car. shoes, sofa seats and armrests or the driver's seat of a car. The product is best applied with a flannel, massaging the leather.