Suede, nubuck and canvas shoes: cleaning and protection

Ankle boots in suede, derbies in nubuck, trainers and espadrilles in canvas: these materials, with their velvety or woven feel, have nothing in common with smooth leather. They cannot be waxed or buffed, and they soak up water and stains far faster than a smart leather shoe.

Looking after them comes down to two steps: a gentle clean that respects the nap or the weave of the fabric, then a water-repellent protection that stops them from marking at the first shower.

This page helps you identify your material and points you to the right method, from freshening up a pair of sneakers to waterproofing suede ankle boots.

Choose the care your shoes need

Suede, nubuck, canvas: three materials, one shared fragility

Suede, also known as velvet leather, is leather worked on the flesh side: its surface is made of raised fibres that give it that downy feel. Nubuck is leather sanded on the grain side, with a finer, tighter nap, but just as sensitive. Canvas, finally, covers most trainers, plimsolls and espadrilles: woven cotton, linen or synthetic fibres that trap dust deep within the weave.

These three materials share one weak point: they are porous. Water leaves rings on them, grease sinks in, and mud dries into the fibres. The greasy products designed for smooth leather, polishes, greases and waxes, would clog them and stain them for good. They need separate care, applied with a light touch.

Cleaning suede, nubuck or canvas shoes

A light-coloured pair turned grey by dust, a mud stain on an ankle boot, a trainer sole that is turning yellow: cleaning is the most common care, and often the most urgent. The longer dirt stays in the fibres, the more firmly it settles in.

The method takes just a few steps: brush dry, clean with a foam using a suitable product, wipe without rubbing hard and leave to air dry. The SOFOLK stain-removing cleaner is suitable for suede and nubuck as well as fabric, and the odour neutraliser deals with the inside of the shoe, where perspiration builds up.

The full step-by-step guide, material by material and stain by stain, can be found on our page on cleaning suede, nubuck or canvas shoes.

Waterproofing and protecting against water and stains

Once clean and dry, your shoes benefit from a water-repellent barrier. Water, grease and liquids then bead on the surface instead of soaking into the fibres: rain rings, splashes and everyday stains no longer have time to sink in.

The SOFOLK waterproofing protector is colourless and odourless, and it lets the material breathe: a protected shoe stays comfortable to wear. Depending on wear, its protection lasts 6 to 12 months.

The right timing, the right quantities and the step-by-step method are detailed on our page dedicated to caring for and waterproofing suede, nubuck and canvas shoes.

What if your shoes are smooth leather?

Court shoes, brogues, boots or loafers in smooth leather follow a completely different routine: cleaning, repairing scuffs, recolouring, then nourishing with polish or oil. You will find all the steps in our dedicated section on restoring leather shoes.

A single pair sometimes combines both: a trainer in smooth leather and nubuck, a suede ankle boot with a patent toe cap. In that case, treat each part with the care that suits it, protecting the other while you apply.

Why choose Sofolk?

For more than 30 years, Sofolk has designed and made in France, near Bordeaux, its restoration and care products for leather, faux leather and textiles. The care products we offer for suede, nubuck and canvas are the ones we use on far more demanding materials, such as nubuck sofas or Alcantara seats.

Unsure about the material of your shoes or which product to use? Send us a photo: we will reply by message, by phone or on the forum.

Frequently asked questions

How can I tell whether my shoes are suede or nubuck?

Run your finger over the surface. Suede has longer, downy fibres that change shade when brushed one way or the other. Nubuck is shorter and tighter, close to the feel of a peach skin. Both are cared for in the same way: gentle cleaning, then waterproofing.

Can you polish suede or nubuck shoes?

No. Polish, grease and wax are made for smooth leather: on velvet leather, they stick the fibres together, darken the shade and leave stains that cannot be recovered. To protect suede or nubuck, use a water-repellent waterproofing protector suited to these materials instead.

Can canvas trainers be machine washed?

We advise against it: hot water and spinning distort the shoe, weaken the glued parts and sometimes turn the soles yellow. Washing by hand, with a foam cleaner and a soft brush, gives a cleaner result without damaging the pair.

In what order should suede, nubuck or canvas shoes be cared for?

Always start with cleaning: dry brushing, stain-removing cleaner, then complete drying. The odour neutraliser can be sprayed inside at this point. The waterproofing protector comes last, on a clean, dry shoe, to seal everything in.

Can suede shoes withstand rain?

Without protection, suede soaks up water, stiffens and keeps rings as it dries. Once waterproofed, it lets droplets bead and withstands showers far better. If your pair gets wet, leave it to dry at room temperature, away from a radiator, then brush it to lift the fibres.