LEATHER CARE: HOW TO NOURISH AND MOISTURISE IT ACCORDING TO ITS TYPE
Without fats, leather would be completely rigid.
Nourishing and moisturising leather means giving it back these fats before it breaks. Here is how to spot leather that is thirsty, the right steps of the Sofolk method and the care suited to each type of leather.
Why nourish and moisturise leather?
New leather contains a reserve of fats deposited during tanning. This is what gives it its suppleness, its feel and its resistance to stretching. With every fold, every time it is sat on, every exposure to heat, the material draws on this reserve; without ever replenishing it, leather left to itself ends up drying out.
Regular care prevents premature wear of the material. Restoring fats in time takes far less effort than a repair, and avoids costly ones in the long run.
Care works where the eye sees nothing, right into the thickness of the fibres.
How can you tell if leather is thirsty?
The signs of leather lacking fats
These signs can be spotted by hand as well as by eye. The leather becomes rigid and less comfortable, and no longer bends with the same suppleness. It turns dull and loses its shine. It can also crack in the areas that work the most.
Rehydrating very dry leather
First of all, check that the hide is intact: if it has split open, repair comes before care, and our guide explains how to repair leather that has already split.
On leather that is simply very dry, the method remains that of step 3 described below; only the application time is longer. Apply the oil in the evening and leave it to work overnight. It even softens leather that is cracked on the surface.
Clean before nourishing
Nourishing always comes second. Spread over dust, an old product or a greasy film, the care stays on the surface instead of reaching the fibres. Dusting with a soft brush, then wiping with a barely damp cloth, is enough for routine care.
For ingrained dirt, it is better to know how to clean leather before nourishing it: a hardened layer permanently blocks the care product from penetrating.
On the other hand, avoid bleach, solvents and ordinary household cleaners: they can discolour the leather and make it rigid, even brittle.
The Sofolk method for nourishing and moisturising
The Sofolk method is directly inspired by the work of leather in the tannery. The principle is simple: give back to the hide, once fitted on a piece of furniture or a seat, the same substances that the tanner had put into it. Our care products are therefore based on three complementary families: the oil that nourishes, the wax and the varnish that protect.
This logic explains the order of the steps. You clean, you nourish in depth, then you protect the surface: each step prepares the next. With a few exceptions, these products are suitable for cowhide, sheepskin, goatskin, lambskin or pigskin, and for their usual finishes, from the most natural aniline to the most covering pigmented leather.
It is also a preventive approach. Leather care does not seek to hide defects, but to delay their appearance, by caring for the material from the inside rather than covering it up. Caring for leather means anticipating first and foremost.
How to nourish and moisturise leather, step by step
On leathers that can be nourished, the steps always follow the same sequence. Here is the procedure to follow, from the equipment to the frequency of care.
Step 1: gather the right equipment
Gather a few soft, clean cloths, a non-abrasive sponge, a soft-bristled brush, a cleaner designed for leather and a specific nourishing oil.
Work in a clean, well-ventilated place, away from any source of heat.
Step 2: dust and clean
First wipe with a dry cloth to remove surface dust. Then soak a cloth or the sponge with cleaner and work in small circular movements without rubbing dry, concentrating on stained areas.
Rubbing too hard, especially with a brush or an abrasive sponge, can damage the protective varnish, or even the grain of the leather.
Wipe off the excess with a clean cloth, then take the time to let the leather dry at room temperature, away from any radiator.
Step 3: nourish and moisturise in depth
Put a little nourishing oil on a washcloth and gently massage the leather, without drowning it, to help the fats reach the inside of the fibres. It is by penetrating deeply that the oil moisturises the material.
Step 4: let it penetrate, then wipe
Depending on how saturated the fibres are, the product takes from 5 minutes to several days to soak in.
A colour may darken while it is being absorbed, like wet leather: it returns to normal once the product has been fully absorbed.
Finally, remove any excess with a dry cloth before use.
Step 5: space out the treatments
Healthy leather does not need to be overfed. Nourish it at least once a year, and 3 to 4 times a year on areas that get heavy use, such as a seat, an armrest or a driver's seat.
Nourishing and moisturising according to the type of leather
Not all leathers can be nourished, and confusing the families can damage the material. Before opening a bottle, find in this table the one you are dealing with.
| Leather | Can it be nourished? | Recommended care | Good to know |
|---|---|---|---|
| Smooth or grained | Yes | A nourishing oil, applied regularly, keeps it supple. | This is the most common leather: sofas, car seats, furniture, clothing and accessories. |
| Aniline | Yes | A specific oil preserves its suppleness; for cleaning, a glycerine soap and little water. | Dyed with soluble dyes, it keeps a natural look and shows the marks of the hide. |
| Pigmented | Yes | Nourishing oil suits it, then a protector limits fading. | Covered with a layer of pigment, it offers a more uniform and more resistant surface. |
| Oiled | Yes | Oil maintains its oiled look. | Treated with oil or wax, it accepts no protection: the fat prevents the product from adhering. |
| Suede | No | Suitable brushing, then a spray that protects it from water and stains. | Its soft, downy surface, with a matt look, keeps the mark of any fatty substance. |
| Velvet | No | Regular brushing against dust, then waterproofing. | Soft, textured surface: a fatty product leaves stains on it that are hard to remove. |
| Nubuck | No | A special nubuck eraser, then a suitable waterproofing product. | Its lightly sanded surface gives it a velvety texture. |
| Split suede | No | Gentle brushing, with a suede tool, then protection against water and stains. | This is the flesh side of the leather, known as reversed leather: a velvety, fragile surface. |
| Patent | No | Regular wiping, with a soft, barely soapy cloth, maintains its shine. | Its varnish makes the leather completely waterproof: so it cannot be nourished. |
| Exotic | Yes | Specific nourishing care, then a protective spray to keep its natural look. | Made from hides such as snake or crocodile, it has unique textures and patterns. |
Which oil, which product to choose?
The right care depends on the leather, its condition and the desired finish. Our dedicated guide explains which oil to choose to nourish leather, in more detail than the few pointers given here on the most common leathers.
Protecting leather after nourishing it
Once the leather is fully nourished and dry, a final coat seals the work. The original finish, matt, satin or gloss, wears with friction and needs to be renewed at least once a year. Discover how to protect leather after nourishing it: a varnish or a wax locks in the colour without preventing the leather from breathing.
Which leather to nourish according to its use?
Not all leathers face the same stresses: the sun in a car interior, the humidity on a deck, the weight on a seat. The method remains the same, and it also applies to a leather garment or to leather goods, a leather bag for example; only the details change from one use to another. Here is where to find the procedure, case by case.
In a living room, the seat takes the weight of bodies and the heat of nearby radiators; see how to nourish a leather sofa to keep it supple for a long time.
Enclosed and overheated behind a windscreen, car leather dries out faster than elsewhere; our advice on how to nourish the leather in a car takes this particular exposure into account.
On a piece of furniture with a patina, learn how to nourish the leather of a club armchair without erasing the patina that gives it all its charm.
A pair of shoes walks, bends and often gets caught in the rain; follow the method to nourish leather shoes and keep them supple season after season.
Exposed to salt, sun and sea spray, marine upholstery needs regular care; find out how to nourish the leather of boat upholstery to help it withstand this demanding climate.
From the biker jacket to the city jacket, find out how to nourish a leather jacket that cold and showers dry out until it feels rough and stiff to put on.
Mistakes to avoid when nourishing leather
Nourishing leather properly depends as much on the things you avoid doing. Here are the most common mistakes.
- Using a non-specific product. A nourishing milk, a cream, a cooking oil or an ordinary grease stays on the surface, becomes sticky and clogs the leather in the medium term. Only a care product formulated for leather really penetrates.
- Saturating the material. Too much oil does not penetrate any further: it sticks. Regularity counts more than quantity.
- Using too much water. In large quantities, water penetrates the fibres and can cause stains or deform the material. Leather soaked by accident should be blotted with a lint-free cloth or kitchen paper, then left to dry on its own.
- Exposing leather to heat. A radiator, a fireplace or direct sunlight speed up the drying out of leather and cancel out the care.
- Using shoe polish on all leathers. Formulated for certain shoe leathers, it may contain dyes or products unsuitable for furniture, clothing and car seats.
- Storing leather in plastic. Leather needs to breathe: shut in a plastic bag, it can retain moisture, then go mouldy and deteriorate.
- Skipping the preliminary test. Before any application, try the product on a hidden area to check that it is compatible with your leather.
Who is advising you?
This guide is written by Sofolk, a French manufacturer of leather maintenance and care products based near Bordeaux since 1989. We developed the method presented here in 1990.
Unsure how to treat your leather before applying a product? Our technical support team answers you from Monday to Friday.
Frequently asked questions
How can you moisturise leather naturally?
Naturally does not mean with water or with a home remedy. At Sofolk, this care is provided by the “Pied de bœuf” Nourishing Oil, made from 100% plant-based oils.
Can a home remedy nourish leather?
It is best to be wary. Cooking oils, greases and home tricks are not formulated for leather: they clog the pores, to the detriment of the look and texture of the leather. Do not judge by the first effect: even leather milks and creams often give a flawless, immediately satisfying look, without actually nourishing the material.
What is the difference between nourishing and moisturising leather?
In practice, none: the two words refer to the same action. The nourishing product restores the leather's moisture and suppleness; a single specific oil therefore nourishes and moisturises at the same time, and keeps cracks at bay.
When should the nourishing oil be applied?
Before the protection: applied before the varnish, the oil penetrates better. After recolouring or a leather repair, wait about 30 days before nourishing it.
Can the oil stain clothes?
No, once it has been absorbed. The oil reaches deep into the leather and does not come back out: a garment placed on it will therefore not be stained.
